Each Cook Must Train At This Spot’: Modest Turkish Dining Spot Secures Fourth on List of London’s Best Food Spots.

When curating a list of London’s best dining spots, one might expect renowned high-end establishments. Yet, tucked near the top among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. This accolade has made the owners totally surprised.

“I am utterly surprised,” remarks the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their modest place achieving such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its original character. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the food, and this establishment more than excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent quality.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, toastier and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Creed of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s success is set to resonate outside its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this culinary achievement.